Hair Loss: Science, Myths and Treatments That Work

Androgenic alopecia, DHT and stress. An honest guide on what can save your hair and what's just marketing.

Aevos Research

Research & Analysis

For most men (and many women), hair loss isn't "bad luck," it's biology. It's called Androgenic Alopecia.
The main cause is genetic: a sensitivity of hair follicles to a hormone called DHT (Dihydrotestosterone), a derivative of testosterone.
DHT binds to the follicle and "miniaturizes" it: with each cycle, the hair grows back thinner and shorter, until it stops growing.

The Hair Growth Cycle

To understand loss, we must understand growth. Each hair goes through 3 phases:

  1. Anagen (Growth): Lasts 2-6 years. The hair is actively growing. In alopecia, this phase gets shorter and shorter.
  2. Catagen (Transition): Lasts 2-3 weeks. The follicle shrinks and detaches from the blood supply.
  3. Telogen (Rest and Shedding): Lasts 3 months. The old hair falls out and the follicle rests before starting a new one.
    When you see a lot of hair falling out (e.g., due to stress), it's because many follicles have prematurely entered the Telogen phase (Telogen Effluvium).

What Works - The Three Approved Treatments

If you want to stop the genetic process, you need to intervene biologically. Caffeine shampoos and cosmetic serums cannot fight DNA.

1. Finasteride: Medication

  • Mechanism: Inhibits the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme, which converts testosterone to DHT. Lowers systemic and scalp DHT by 60-70%.
  • Efficacy: Stops hair loss in 80-90% of men and promotes regrowth in many. It is the only true "block" to the cause.
  • Side Effects: Much discussed. Clinical studies indicate that about 2-4% of men experience decreased libido or erectile dysfunction, which usually disappears upon stopping the drug. "Post-finasteride syndrome" is rare and still a subject of scientific debate. Requires a medical prescription.

2. Minoxidil: Topical

  • Mechanism: Vasodilator that prolongs the Anagen phase and enlarges the follicle. It does not act on DHT, so it is a growth stimulant, not an inhibitor of the cause.
  • Efficacy: Great for stimulating regrowth, but if you stop, the hair gained falls out within 3-4 months ("withdrawal shedding").

3. Microneedling: Dermaroller

  • Mechanism: Creating micro-wounds in the scalp stimulates growth factors and tissue regeneration. Dramatically increases Minoxidil absorption.
  • Protocol: Usually once a week (1.0-1.5mm needles). Don't make it bleed excessively, just intense redness (erythema).

4. Red Light Therapy (LLLT)

  • Mechanism: Stimulates follicle to prolong the growth phase and reduce inflammation. See dedicated article on photobiomodulation.

Natural Adjuvants: Do They Work?

They don't replace medication, but they can help:

  • Saw Palmetto (Serenoa Repens): A natural 5-alpha-reductase inhibitor. Much less potent than finasteride, but with fewer side effects. Useful in early stages or for maintenance.
  • Pumpkin Seed Oil: Some studies show a modest increase in hair count (400mg/day).
  • Scalp Massage: According to the "tension theory," baldness occurs where the skin is tightest (scalp), reducing blood flow. Massaging 10-20 minutes a day can reduce tension and improve vascularization.

Hair Supplements: Useful?

Biotin is famous, but it only helps if you're deficient (which is rare).
However, deficiencies in Iron ( < 50), Vitamin D, and Zinc can cause diffuse hair loss. A targeted multivitamin can help hair shaft quality, making it thicker and shinier, but it won't stop androgenic alopecia if DHT continues to attack the follicle.

Ketoconazole Shampoo

An anti-dandruff shampoo (Nizoral) that has shown mild anti-androgen properties and reduces scalp inflammation (perifollicular micro-inflammation), creating a better environment for growth. Use it 2-3 times a week.

The Truth

The sooner you act, the more hair you save. It's much easier to maintain the hair you have than to regrow what's lost. If follicles are dead (shiny skin), only a transplant works.

Stress is a key factor in hair health. Measure yours.

Stress and health check-up

Frequently Asked Questions

False. The hair you see in the shower was already in the telogen (shedding) phase. Washing the scalp is essential to remove accumulated sebum and DHT.
Myth. Unless it's so tight it blocks circulation (unlikely), it doesn't affect follicles.
Acute stress can cause Telogen Effluvium (temporary diffuse shedding), but it doesn't cause classic male pattern baldness (which is genetic/hormonal), although it can accelerate it.
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